Arborway looking west. South Street and Hampstead neighborhood in distance. c. 1920 |
Ward 11 map, 1924 |
Forest Hills has been a
significant transit
hub for two hundred years - a crossroads where pedestrians, railroads,
horse-drawn carriages, trolleys, cars, cabs,
buses, elevated trains and subways have all converged to provide
industrial, recreational and
commuter connections for the residents of Boston, Jamaica Plain and the
region. Over many decades these links have
evolved somewhat haphazardly, coming and going through time,
leaving lasting scars in the
landscape. As each transit mode has been replaced by later technologies,
the legacies of their presence have accumulated and contributed to the
confused connections that exist on the ground today. Along the way a
vibrant
neighborhood has grown up in the area and differing needs and priorities
have taken hold within the community.
My
home abuts this section of the parkway known as the Arborway, and I
have a keen interest in plans for the future here. I've followed avidly
through a heated public process with an open mind but with confidence in
the professionals involved and faith in my neighbors who have been
participating in the process as advocates of one stripe or another.
To my eye, and as a neighbor who has chosen to live in Jamaica Plain for its great diversity and abundant greenspace, the plan to eliminate the bridge is a huge opportunity for my community. The city of Boston will have a more rational street layout and a reconnection between Jamaica Pond, the world-class Arnold Arboretum and Franklin Park. We'll have a tree-lined boulevard instead of a massive and unnecessary fly-over for transitory drivers. We'll have more blue sky and open space, an inviting network of bike paths and pedestrian ways where bridge abutments and ramps now stand. Commuters heading for the Orange Line at Forest Hills Station from northern Jamaica Plain will have a new Head House for the subway station that eliminates the need for many to cross the east-west flow of traffic. And the main station will have a newly redesigned plaza where buses currently idle that may serve as valuable community space. Forest Hills and Jamaica Plain have the potential to become a showcase gateway for southern Boston, a more functional transit hub and a recreational magnet for the residents of the city and beyond.
I'm hopeful that the evolving plans will continue to be informed by the rich history of the area. Though I believe it is unrealistic to wish for a return to an idyllic 19th century vision of parkland in the midst of this very real 21st century transportation dilemma, I believe that the local heritage can and should inform the decision making. Where a large, ugly overpass now stands, a beautifully landscaped parkway once existed - and, in adapted form, it will exist again:
Forest Hills looking north in 1925. Left-right dark stripe is the Arborway. |
To my eye, and as a neighbor who has chosen to live in Jamaica Plain for its great diversity and abundant greenspace, the plan to eliminate the bridge is a huge opportunity for my community. The city of Boston will have a more rational street layout and a reconnection between Jamaica Pond, the world-class Arnold Arboretum and Franklin Park. We'll have a tree-lined boulevard instead of a massive and unnecessary fly-over for transitory drivers. We'll have more blue sky and open space, an inviting network of bike paths and pedestrian ways where bridge abutments and ramps now stand. Commuters heading for the Orange Line at Forest Hills Station from northern Jamaica Plain will have a new Head House for the subway station that eliminates the need for many to cross the east-west flow of traffic. And the main station will have a newly redesigned plaza where buses currently idle that may serve as valuable community space. Forest Hills and Jamaica Plain have the potential to become a showcase gateway for southern Boston, a more functional transit hub and a recreational magnet for the residents of the city and beyond.
I'm hopeful that the evolving plans will continue to be informed by the rich history of the area. Though I believe it is unrealistic to wish for a return to an idyllic 19th century vision of parkland in the midst of this very real 21st century transportation dilemma, I believe that the local heritage can and should inform the decision making. Where a large, ugly overpass now stands, a beautifully landscaped parkway once existed - and, in adapted form, it will exist again:
Arborway looking west in Winter c. 1900. South Street intersection. |
Arborway, Arborway Rd, Hampstead Rd. and South Street looking North. c. 1910 |
Casey Overpass looking East c. 2013. Now reduced to two lanes for safety. |
In the late 19th
century, several factors were in motion at once that had a profound and
lasting impact on this area. Renowned landscape architect Frederick Law
Olmsted was at work designing the Arnold Arboretum and the string of
Boston Parks that came to be known as the Emerald Necklace. And concern
about the street-level safety of railroad crossings within Boston led to
the elevation via berm of the Boston and Providence Rail lines. Many
rail bridges were built to accommodate cross traffic through southern
Boston, but only one - the Forest Hills Viaduct over the new Arborway
parkway - was designed by architects. In 1898, a series of granite
archways designed by the firm of Shepley, Rutan and Coolidge rose over
the parkways at Forest Hills Station and stood here until 1983:
Boston and Providence RR Viaduct and The Arborway, 1907 |
This viaduct spanned two carriageways, two bridle paths and a pedestrian path that once carried
travelers along the Arborway from Jamaica Pond, past the Arnold
Arboretum, through Forest Hills and on to Morton Street and Franklin Park.
Olmsted
had
originally intended for the separate sections of the Emerald Necklace
parkways to be
lined with differing species of trees that would signal the character of
each portion. For the
Fenway he planted Norway Maples while the Riverway received American
Lindens and
the Jamaicaway got the Northern Red Oaks that still line the parkway
today. But for
the Arborway, Olmsted wanted Cucumber Magnolias and Tulip Trees –
flowering
varieties that were to serve as an invitation to and an echo of the
bordering Arnold Arboretum.
Those plans were not fully carried out, and instead the parks
superintendent switched
to Red Oaks for the entire run to Franklin Park. While the oaks were
still small and the canopy open, flowering rose shrubs were planted in
between the trees along the Arborway:
Shrub roses along Arborway. Viaduct in distance. Arborway Hillside to left. |
Beginning in 1909, just east of that heavy rail viaduct, Washington Street was capped by the elevated Orange
Line which ran for miles towards Boston. Forest Hills was the end of the line
and home to a large station that dominated much of the site. Sidings and a switching yard flowed out to the south:
Forest Hills Elevated Station. Note trolley barn underneath. |
Elevated Orange Line with B and P rail viaduct in background, 1970s photo: Marty Bernard, www.railpictures.net |
The
street level where Forest Hills Square once stood was also host to a
trolley yard and turnaround for
the carriages that ran down Centre and South Streets in Jamaica Plain.
This must have created a confused traffic situation on the ground that I
imagine to have been a bit like present day Cleveland Circle in
Brookline, with cars and trolleys fighting for right of way, their bells
dinging and horns blaring:
Forest Hills Square |
South St and Arborway, Jamaica Plain 1929 photo: Jamaica Plain Historical Society |
But
the Jamaica Plain version was also shadowed by two elevated train lines
and the consequent obstacles of the underlying bridge abutments as well.
As can be seen in this aerial shot from 1929, the two rail
lines were a significant interruption to the parkway landscape shown in
the upper left. And with the
large bridgework, station and trolley traffic taking up much of the
footprint the area
was deemed to be a significant bottleneck for car traffic by the time of
the mid-century post-War boom in population.
Generally northward view. Boston and Providence rail on left, Elevated Orange line station on right |
Yet
remnants of the Arborway landscaping survived throughout the first half
of the 20th century between the rail lines. Like Virginia Lee Burton's The Little House, some of the parkway character held on while the industry of the city evolved around it:
The Arborway's trees and shrubs between the two rail lines, 1910. |
By
the 1950s, travel by auto was becoming so dominant that
calls for a bridge to span these two elevated train lines and the
trolley
turnaround grew louder. And so was born the Forest Hills (later Casey)
Overpass. In the style of highway engineering of the time, it was to be
a long, wide arch dominating the daylight and skyline, carrying the
East-West through traffic over the area, with it's feet stepping around
and between the North-south roadways, the two rail lines and the trolley
turnaround:
1951. Casey Overpass deck under construction above the elevated train line at Washington Street. photo: Anthony Sammarco/Jamaica Plain Historical Socity |
Casey Overpass looking to the east. Shattuck Hospital in distance. Toole Square in foreground. photo: Jamaica Plain Historical Society |
The street-level disconnection between this southern portion of Jamaica
Plain and it’s northerly sections was exacerbated even further. To build the overpass, the Arborway
parkway underneath was destroyed. Half the former East-West street level thoroughfare was taken up by
bridge abutments and ramps. A significant portion of the Arborway Hillside and a
large home on Arborway Road were also destroyed for a westerly on-ramp from South Street, resulting in the construction of a
barren stone retaining wall topped by a chain-link fence near Hampstead Road.
Westerly on-ramp at South Street and Arborway Road showing the retaining wall built in the 1950s |
Arborway Hillside retaining wall looking to east. |
The
tangle of ground-level intersections in the gloomy
shadow of the bridge became even more difficult to navigate for cars,
buses, pedestrians and cyclists below. The neighborhood was left with
ill-conceived turning options for cars, dangerous crosswalks for
pedestrians and even awkward and confusing street names while some of
the east-west traffic from elsewhere flew overhead.
Easterly ramp at South Street/Washington |
Under the westernmost abutments |
During
the 1970s a huge public outcry halted state plans to build a cross-town
freeway through southern Boston, but not before some buildings fell to
eminent domain takings. In the 1980s the Southwest Corridor project
utilized some of this land, combining the
elevated heavy rail lines and the elevated orange line and then sinking
both in a trench
running five miles from the Back Bay to Roslindale. Miles of parkland
and bike paths eventually lined
the new corridor where homes, industrial buildings and rail yards once
stood.
The elevated lines and stations and the old stone viaduct were torn
down, replaced by the
current Forest Hills Station.
The New Forest Hills Station alongside the old, late 1980s. |
Shortly
thereafter, the traffic-snarling
on-street trolley traffic was eliminated on Centre and South Streets
through downtown Jamaica Plain, and eventually the trolley turnaround at
Forest Hills Station was converted to a busway for the 39 bus.
So…
today we have a massive Overpass built to span three
transit routes which no longer exist at street level. With it's huge
footprint and ramps, it is an impediment to street level traffic through
the neighborhood as well as to and from neighborhoods to the south like
West Roxbury, Roslindale, Hyde Park and Dedham. And the Overpass is
irreparably crumbling. For safety, the bridge traffic has
been reduced to one lane in each direction, and anyone traveling more
than 20 miles an hour on it risks life and axle. Much of the span has
been covered
with netting to keep parts and pavement from falling to the streets and
sidewalks below.
As
of this writing (May 2013), it has been more than a year since a
lengthy public process resulted in the selection of what's been called
the "at-grade solution": The Casey Arborway. After intense and ongoing
community debate, peer-reviewed traffic studies and engineering plans
have determined that a bridge is unnecessary and that it's removal
creates an opportunity for improved traffic flow and quality of life.
This has resulted in a decision to replace the crumbling edifice with
something much more like Olmsted's parkway than many residents can
imagine.
This draft open space plan from April 2013 shows the current state of design, which is subject to further refinement:
This draft open space plan from April 2013 shows the current state of design, which is subject to further refinement:
Yet
the memory of the contentious 1970s cross-town highway period remains a
significant clarion
call for some long-standing members of the community, and the legacy of
stopping the elevated highway in the 70s has been used as
justification for trying to roll back the decision to eliminate the
bridge now. Ironically, some of those who were opposed to elevated
highways forty years ago
are some of the very same voices calling for building a new elevated
bridge here now.
Despite the peer-reviewed studies and computer models showing that
travel times will be comparable with a newly designed at-grade
boulevard
- and that, not insignificantly, the tax dollar savings for the citizens
of the Commonwealth would be huge - some in the community
have had a difficult time accepting either the data or the decision.
After all I've read and heard on this topic, I'm firmly in favor of the chosen course - the at-grade solution - and I'm in favor of coming together as a community to help craft the best possible solution from the opportunity presented.
Communities all across the country (including Boston) have found that eliminating massive highway-style viaducts can create vibrant open space and rational thruways without hampering the flow of traffic. I firmly believe this will be the outcome here.
After all I've read and heard on this topic, I'm firmly in favor of the chosen course - the at-grade solution - and I'm in favor of coming together as a community to help craft the best possible solution from the opportunity presented.
Communities all across the country (including Boston) have found that eliminating massive highway-style viaducts can create vibrant open space and rational thruways without hampering the flow of traffic. I firmly believe this will be the outcome here.
But there
is still work to be done. Landscaping plans are not final. Many details
remain to be worked out in a vigorous public process. My neighborhood in
particular (in the upper left corner of the draft Open Space plan
above) is one of the least green sections proposed. Partly that is a
result of the on-ramp retaining wall legacy of the 1950s, but partly
it's because this is a "work in progress", one rapidly being amended
thanks to strong community input. There are specific and very local
issues I'd like to see refined - which I'm sure is true for many
abutting neighbors throughout the project. Perched on the edge of a
mid-century retaining wall myself, I'm hoping for improved views and
traffic flow, for a softened greenscape and the maximum reasonable
effort to enhance the community outcome while a 21st Century
transportation solution is crafted on our front door.
I've
been involved in educating my neighborhood about the facts and details
as they've become known, and in helping to spread the word about what
once was and what might be. I've hosted outreach meetings for the
neighborhood with the parties responsible for the outcome, and our
voices have now been heard. The proof is in the pudding, of course, but
the authorities have been responsive to our rational and reasonable
voices so far. We're looking to refine the outcome while there is still
time, and though we'd certainly like to survive the construction process
over the next few years relatively unscathed, most of us are looking past that
short-term inconvenience to the long-term legacy being created now. I'm
hopeful that it will be a legacy worthy of the one we've inherited.
As Frederick Law Olmsted himself said in his last report on Franklin Park, quoting John Ruskin:
"Let it not be for the present delight, nor for present use alone; let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for..."
###
I'd
be terribly remiss if I didn't acknowledge the vast amount I've learned
and paraphrased from the work of Richard Heath whose "History of Forest
Hills" is available on the website of the Jamaica Plain Historical
Society here:
http://www.jphs.org/locales/2004/5/15/history-of-forest-hills.html
Cynthia Zaitzevsky's "Frederick Law Olmsted and the Boston Park System" is a terrific book, one I've pored over repeatedly and it offers a wealth of information on the creation of the Emerald Necklace.
For information about other communities re-casting their highways and viaducts see in particular the Congress for New Urbanism's Highways to Boulevards project:
http://www.cnu.org/highways
MassDOT's website dedicated to the Casey project has been a wealth of information for the community. Filled with documents, data, plans, meeting transcripts and other resources it is the place to go if you'd like to see "how they make the sausage" in a massive and evolving inter-agency public works process. I thank them for their dedication, responsiveness and ingenuity:
http://www.massdot.state.ma.us/caseyarborway/Home.aspx
Other
contributors to the J.P. historical society have also unknowingly been
helpful to me as I pursued this interest, as has the staff of the Arnold
Arboretum, the JP Branch of the Boston Public Library, that of the
Arborway Coalition, a host of online rail buffs who seemed to know their
stuff, various archivists throughout the city as well as
representatives of MassDOT and their consultants. The community members
and advocacy groups that have been a part of this project's planning all
along have also certainly helped to shape both my thinking and the
project itself.
Many of the images here originated in the collections of others, and though some are public domain in nature, all were used without their permission or with sub-standard citation. For that I can only confess to being a reader with a large appetite and not a professional scholar. To any that I've harmed or misrepresented, I beg forgiveness.
Many of the images here originated in the collections of others, and though some are public domain in nature, all were used without their permission or with sub-standard citation. For that I can only confess to being a reader with a large appetite and not a professional scholar. To any that I've harmed or misrepresented, I beg forgiveness.
Clay Harper
Hampstead Road
Jamaica Plain
May 2013
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